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on the internet There’s a $102 loaf of bread that people are talking about like medicine. It’s panettone. which is a yeast bread next to a fruitcake. It is traditional in Italy and at Christmas and is made by Chef Roy Shvartzapel from California. The same goes for most panettones. It looked like a giant muffin. It has a dramatic domed top and gold printed paper wrapped around the sides. As stated on the box, it’s “carefully crafted” among other things. “The endless drive to control time and nature. and a passion for pleasing the senses.” (Okay!) Dan Riesenberger, a panettone maker in Columbus, Ohio, tells me that Shvartzapel’s version has “incredible texture.” Rachel Tashjian Wise, fashion critic at at washington postTry the one at Shvartzapel. Made for Gucci (!) last year and told me in an email that “It. is. beautiful” emphasized her, bakery. tickerOne of the many people who posted about Shvartzapel’s product described eating it as “Spiritual experience” I will take their word for it. Because I would never have known it myself: Shvartzapel sold out of Christmas panettone on December 1st.
People enjoying baked goods isn’t really revolutionary. And the idea of internet fame for snacks isn’t. But the strange thing about this one is that People really don’t like panettone. Whether generally speaking or historically. At best the panettone I had was forgotten. Otherwise, they’re dense, sweet, musty, and smell like dried sponges that spent too much time in Bath & Body Works in 2013. The Guardian run story The headline read “Save Us From Panettone – A Festive Delicacy No One Likes” a few years later. Lovin MaltaIt is Malta’s largest online publication. called local luxury Even those who devoted their lives to panettone admitted that it had visual problems. Riesenberger called it “a forgettable item”; Shvartzapel tells me that when he first started selling panettoni in 2015, many people wondered who would pay so much for a product that “Nobody in America even likes it.”
The Problem with Most Panettones Any stylish panettone maker will tell you that. Not Panettone But it is mass production. Good panettone is meticulous and labor intensive. It is done in a multi-day, multi-step process: fermenting, rising, mixing, rising, mixing, shaping, cutting, baking, hanging. Upside down like a bat Therefore, its top does not collapse as it cools. Each step may go wrong. The structure collapsed. The starter is too acidic. The dough rose too much. or not enough Or irregular or irregular, “every time, it humbles you,” says Riesenberger. Brian Francis, a writer and home chef in Toronto Let’s make one. Three years ago, “all in all,” he told me, “it was a trip to hell.” Panettone in many grocery stores is produced in large quantities using cheap ingredients. It is then stored for several months before being sold at Christmas. This will dry out or require the use of preservatives. Or, more likely, both. Riesenberger PanettoneSelling for $105, it requires $20 of ingredients, such as local pasture-raised eggs. High quality chocolate, wild yeast, special Italian flour he found online. And about four days of skilled workers and close production attention before shipping. Fresh.
Some fetish foods have a life cycle: they are hated. And then they are elevated with a well-meaning obsession through the use of premium ingredients and better production techniques. Then liking these foods becomes a symbol of the taste and sophistication of being in Something. “getting it” in the figurative sense It has become just as rewarding. with receiving it in a material sense “You saw the unboxing video. And it starts the spiral effect of: I have to try this. I need to understand what’s going on here.” food influencer Katie Zukhovich told me. “I don’t think people could imagine that panettone was this good because it always has been. good–
We’ve done this before. Canned fish was in decline before a handful of Millennial-focused brands started putting high-quality seafood into attractive containers, after all. “Hot girl eats canned fish” It became something that people would say out loud. Licorice, one of the most repulsive flavors known to the human tongue. It’s become the point of this episode. Endless video taste testing After receiving European shine– Panettone is the worst thing in the world. And then it was redeemed.
We are now in phase 3 of the trend. The market is saturated with both very good and mediocre but well-branded versions. and there are also various products It’s not food at all but signals your internal state at the same time. That way Fabric bag with anchovy print– As I write this, TikTok has over 60,000 hashtagged videos. #panettone– Gucci Panettone for sale, $140Although Schvartzapel is no longer baked, Dolce & Gabbana and Moschino sell it in collaboration with the Italian manufacturer. Online gift guides aren’t as good as specialty food stores. last winter Anthropologie Panettone-shaped candles selling for $98 When I spoke on the phone with Stephen Zagor, an assistant professor of food entrepreneurship at Columbia University, he told me, “It looks like Panettone is taking on a life beyond itself.”
Expensive panettone doesn’t necessarily taste really good, although many people do. “Food is two things,” Zagor said. “It is something that exists in reality. And it’s an image that we created online. and how we perceive it And it’s not always the same. People buy things that are intangible and not real.” In his class, Zagor talks about “taking the ordinary and making it extraordinary. and taking the extraordinary and making it ordinary”: creating products that are decadent but not too accessible. A product that attracts both the top end of the market and the coveted bottom end, a hundred dollars is a lot of money to spend on snacks. But if you think premium panettone isn’t food. But it is entering a certain group of consumers. This is the smart, complicated, and at least a little rich layer: bargaining.
It should come as no surprise that high-end clothing companies are getting involved in Panettone. Fashion writer Becky Malinsky told me in an email, “It’s an easy way to digest. (no pun intended!) to provide a luxury name that’s easy to remember without spending like $2,300 on a handbag.” High fashion Panettone helps brand-conscious consumers own an unattainable label. And influence-conscious fashion houses can get involved in trends that are popular among influential young people. without diluting their brand Because panettone remains a fussy antique – a world-class expensive Italian product. It is a product made by hand using flour and sugar instead of silk or leather.
Dolce & Gabbana’s panettone is made in Sicily by the 71-year-old company and then shipped around the world in small collectible tins. Super chic with a hand-drawn look. A few weeks ago I ordered one It’s about the size of your average single-serve coffee shop pastry and costs $44.95 before shipping. It’s significantly more expensive than the grocery store panettone I bought for comparison – 45 cents per gram vs. 2.2 cents per gram – and actually a little more delicious. And it’s not very delicious.
Obviously, I played it myself. My wonderful panettone—the expensive looking one. One that sends the outward signal that we associate with high-quality craftsmanship and traditional craftsmanship—it’s everything the fancy panettones warned me to avoid: it, used to be. Mass production and full of Preservatives and other ingredients that few people who are not farmers will know (maybe when looking back I should have misunderstood that it was available on Amazon Prime.) But I bought a $45 muffin and wanted it to change me: For a moment, I started to convince myself. Maybe panettone tastes like that and I is the problem
A few days later, one of Riesenberger’s panettones arrived in the mail. It was nearly a foot tall. Garnish with crunchy almond sugar. Rich chocolate and pistachio pockets And the texture is dense like custard and light like clouds at the same time. I finally got it. And finally I got it. His Panettone is as different from the other two as watching a movie about taking drugs is about taking drugs yourself. It is beautiful– My emphasis is very much.
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